Paphos People

Why Easter in September you ask, we have been over here for twenty years and are currently working on a history of discovery that we went through. How green were we, well read on and find out. If you have any similar experiences post them up.

EASTER IN CYPRUS

We have spent twenty Easters in Cyprus, differently every time. The first one was before we moved over permanently and was very quiet. Having been told that we “had to be here for Easter” we flew over especially on the Wednesday before Good Friday.
“Why are you here?” asked our neighbours in the complex where we had bought an apartment.
“We’ve come for Easter of course” we said.
“That’s not for another three weeks over here” they said with a laugh you should have done some research.
So we had a pleasant week on holiday, then three weeks later over we came again for the Cyprus Easter. “DOH”
The following year, we were permanent residents and keen explorers of this paradise island which was now our home. We went everywhere in the first six months and particularly liked the mountainous Troodos area. Having visited Kekopetria we decided to return there for Easter. Some friends had been there already and told us about ‘The Mill Hotel’ originally a water driven grain mill, it has been converted to sixteen suites and an excellent restaurant. Trout is a specialty of the house, freshly caught from the stream on which the hotel stands. We were told it was essential that we booked the restaurant as it was always packed.
Arriving on Easter Saturday lunchtime, we booked a table for two at eight o clock that night and then spent a very pleasant afternoon exploring the village.
The old village main street is very steep and only ‘two donkeys’ wide with many restaurants and souvenir shops, a coffee in one of the tiny restaurants turned into a surprise when we were shown through to the rear of the building. There was a large balcony which hung over the stream which cascaded down the valley below.
Asking the proprietor what happened at Easter time he told us of the Midnight Mass which everybody in the village attended. That sounded interesting so we decided to go there after dinner.
Back to the hotel, we got ready for the dinner we were so looking forward to. Showered and changed down we went to the restaurant which was deserted! Slightly mystified we sat at our table.
“Where is everybody?” we asked the waiter.
“It is Easter sir” was his reply.
“Of course” we replied not understanding at all.
An excellent meal and a good bottle of wine later we went for a wander around the village. Bars, cafes and shops were all closed and the place was like a ghost town. After wandering around for about half an hour we went back to the hotel. The receptionist greeted us with a smile.
“Where is everybody?” we asked.
“It is Easter sir” she said “Everybody is getting ready for Mass”
“Oh, what time does everything start then” I enquired.
“Go to the church after eleven o clock, I’m sure you will enjoy it”
Back to our suite, watch local television for an hour or so then off we went, this time with a thick coat on against the chill night air.
The Church was up the hill and brightly lit. People were making their way up the hill in their droves so we joined them. Inside it was packed with worshippers. Priests in ornate robes stood at the front chanting and swinging incense burners around. We sat at the back to observe and were not disappointed.
The ladies were all dressed in their finest gowns accompanied by their husbands looking uncomfortable in their best suits. It was a fashion parade for all the important people in the village to be seen. The Priests were chanting and swaying about at the front but the noise of all the congregation talking loudly, as they do, completely drowned what was being said . However every now and then the bishop would cross himself and as he did so everybody stopped talking and crossed themselves. Then they started talking again.
After about half an hour of this we were starting to feel like we didn’t belong when suddenly BANG, outside the church a firework display was starting. Grateful for an excuse we left through a side door into a field. There was a huge bonfire waiting to be lit to burn Judas Escariot and the display was packed with ‘ordinary’ people. Midnight came, the fire was lit and fireworks were let off. Slowly people began drifting away and we did the same.
Arriving back at the hotel we started for the lift.
“No No Sir, Madam the restaurant is ready for the feast” said the receptionist beckoning us through.
That was why it was deserted earlier everybody got fed royally for free!
Two types of soup, a brown one and a white one (Have the white one) were available, with florine(bread) followed by meat and salad, waiters were floating around the tables with red or white wine, replenishing peoples glasses.
Everybody was given hard boiled eggs the shells dyed a deep maroon colour with which they ‘played conkers’ cracking the eggs together until they broke. Apparently it symbolises the death, then the rebirth of Jesus when the egg breaks.
Eventually we got to bed about two thirty in the morning having sampled our first proper Cypriot Easter.




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I always come to Paphos for Cypriot Easter. On Good Friday I usually stay overnight in Larnaca in a hotel overlooking St Lazarus Church. Its lovely sitting on the balcony listening to the service which is piped to all those outside. When they bring out the Epitaphios all decorated and parade it around the local streets its a sight to behold with the wave of people following.